Wednesday, 1 June 2011

Another chapter ends

Total traveling miles: 64,174






As I write to you now I find myself sitting within the dinning room of my home. On my laptops screen I seem to have my blog open and a post waiting to be filled. But how am I supposed to end one of the best years of my life? How do I draw this chapter to a close? After a lot of pacing, sighing and staring out of the window I've decided to try and write some useful tips for 'would be travelers' who, right now, are flicking through guidebooks trying to workout which part of the world they want to travel to. First of all I would like to recommend a book – called 'The Backpackers Bible' – which I read before starting my trip.

To do this blog justice I've broken it down into the below topics:



  • What is traveling?



  • Where to go?




  • Budgets and money




  • What to pack?


  • Be prepared


  • How to stay safe?




  • Keep organised




  • Looking back would I have changed anything?




  • How much have I spent?




  • What wasn't I expecting?




  • Have fun




  • So where's next and when?


What is traveling?



I suppose the best way to start is to tell you that traveling is NOT a holiday. Not only is the amount of time, and amount of money, different but, I believe, there are three aspects to traveling, two of which a short holiday can never fulfill:



  • Sightseeing



  • Gaining an insight into a countries culture



  • talking to other travelers

Of course it would be stupid to visit Cambodia and not see the temples of Angkor; of course the terracotta warriors are a 'must see' and hiking through the Rockies is a highlight of any Canadian trip. All of these tourist destinations are called 'tourist destinations' for a reason and some of my most favorite memories involve these sites. However some of my biggest expenses, and use of time, have been on 'must see tourist sites' that have left me disappointed. As you travel you'll come to realise what is worth seeing and what isn't; this list differs for everyone as we all like different things. At the start of my trip I paid to enter museums, zoo's and aquariums however, over time, I realised that these for me never became a lasting memory. Don't feel as though you must see something everyday; due to the length of time you'll be away you cannot afford to see sites all the time. Walking around a city, with no particular location in mind, or visiting places who's 'tourist pull' maybe low, or none existent, might be a better use of your time. It's these places that will ultimately give you the insight into the countries culture that so many tourists aim for.



Being the only tourist within a city is no bad thing and it's at these times that observing becomes crucial; walk around, sit in a restaurant over looking the main street or wonder through the main market and you'll witness the local population perform daily routines that may seem alien to you. It's at these times that questions will come into your head and trying to understand why the locals do things the way they do is ultimately one of the most rewarding aspects of traveling. Handy wrote that 'culture is the way we do things around here' and the meaning of that statement will become clear as you wind your way through the world.

On a holiday you may find yourself zipping from place to place conscious of fitting in as much as possible within the boundaries of your 'leave'. Traveling allows you to take your time and there's nothing wrong with filling your days sitting in a bar and observing. My own travels have taken different forms depending on the size, cultural aspects and time within a country. For example; within New Zealand and Canada I moved quickly (spending no more that three or four nights in a town) to try to see as much as possible as these countries culture is similar to my home. Within South East Asia I found myself spending six or seven nights within a town; the number of tourist attractions may have been less but the culture was so different that observing how things are done took time.


Finally I'd say that meeting other travelers is a major aspect of traveling that you would never experience on a holiday. Sharing a dorm, with like minded people, allows you to find out about their home countries (providing potential future destinations), find out about places that no guidebook lists', find out about the cheapest eats and the cheapest ways of getting around. Spending many a night playing cards, within the common room of a hostel, talking about individual experiences has been very rewarding.


Where to go?

Always a difficult choice. For most travelers 'where to go' is usually dictated by their budgets; I would say that this is not a wise method. First of all read a few guidebooks, look at photos and watch TV programmes; think about what you enjoy doing and work out where to go from that. I had five countries that, for one reason or another, captivated me that I built my traveling route around:





  • Canada (nature)




  • New Zealand (nature)




  • Japan (history)




  • Vietnam (Top Gear Special)




  • China (history)



With these five countries as my core I built a logical route around the world adding the USA, Fiji, Australia, Singapore, Malaysia, Thailand, Laos and Cambodia. For different reasons I've loved each country though the amount of time spent in each could have been better proportioned.

My biggest advice to 'would be' travelers is to, for now, forget about money and concentrate on the country(ies) that you feel would give you the most enjoyment. Read about those places, look at photos and watch programmes and then, when decided on the location, look at how much you're likely to spend a day. There is no 'official' amount of time you have to be away for; I'd say that a minimum of three months will give you a good feel into traveling but, if you fancy traveling around an expensive country, don't be put off that your planned six month trip might have to be cut down to four.



Another important thing to mention is that distance doesn't matter; traveling around neighboring countries can be just as rewarding as traveling thousands of miles and my next big interest is in Europe and my home country.

Once you've decided where you want to go, and for how long you can afford to stay, the hardest work is over.

Budgets and money


Something that I haven't been very good at. The first thing to do, in regards to budgets, is to set a daily amount for each country; most guidebooks will give you a rough estimate but you must take into account the age of the book and expect things to have become more expensive for every year passed. Another good thing to do is to go on the internet and work out possible costs from there. Before entering Canada I went on the Canadian Greyhound website to look at the cost of coach journeys from 'x' to 'y'. I also looked into hostel costs and some attractions. Once you have a daily figure in mind this will allow you, once traveling, to benchmark yourself and see how you're doing; every week I would work out my average spend to see how I was doing.


Try not to make your budget too tight or enforce it too strongly; there will be times when you need a little 'comfort shopping' after a horrible train journey, or a bad experience, and always counting the pennies can ruin a trip. Having said that the old phase 'look after the pennies and the pounds will look after themselves' rings true in traveling; you wouldn't believe how much you can save if you downgrade to the twelve bed dorm (saving you 50p) and if you opt for the less expensive meal. 50p here and 50p there really does add up.


Personally I like to walk and so I've spent very little on local transport. I do, however, like my food ... especially cake. I would think nothing of spending £3/£4 on a slice of cake, and a hot chocolate, if my taste buds tingle afterwards. The thought of having a lovely slice of chocolate cake has got me through numerous nights and bus journeys.


To summarise; the important thing about budgets are:



  • try to work out a possible daily amount




  • try not to make it too rigid




  • balance yourself between traveling on a budget and having fun




  • Keep checking how you're doing



In regards to money make sure you keep an 'emergency credit card' somewhere away from your wallet. If my wallet became lost, or stolen, I had a spare credit card to get me through for a while (kept with my passport). Take more than one card - which allows the withdrawal money – with you and make sure that you mix the providers (for example one visa card and one mastercard) encase ATM's, or shops, don't accept your first choice of payment.



In most countries cash is king; this allows you to easily see how far your money is going but, once withdrawn, carrying a large sum can seem daunting. Before a withdrawal I would have a list of items I needed to purchase; for example a train ticket, a souvenir or some toiletries. I would wait until I'd withdrawn a large amount before purchasing all these things to bring my cash level down to a safe level. Having said that, it's unwise to spend a lot of money as soon as you enter a country. Give yourself time to work out the true value of food, travel etc or else a 'bargain', in your previous destination, might be expensive here.


One, off the topic note, if you want to purchase a souvenir but worry about the weight, post it home. I'm still waiting for parcels from China and Vietnam but everything I've posted has arrived home. Plus if sea mail is chosen it's not too expensive.

What to pack?


A difficult decision to make. What you pack will depend on three things: where you're going, your interests and how much you can carry. If you're spending six months in Fiji then you might be able to leave your thermals at home; if you're heading to Russia then maybe the thermals might be a good idea. Always research the weather of your intended country; the northern parts of South East Asia (Laos and Vietnam) can be extremely cold and I've seen numerous people freezing in a t-shirt.


If you're planning on trekking for days, visiting remote villages or spending time within poor countries then it would be unwise to travel without a decent medical kit. Paper is heavy so limit yourself on one novel and a guidebook; most hostels have a 'book swap' section.


Most of your bag will be filled with clothes; remember that you're traveling and do not need to be fashionable (try to avoid 'named brands'). Also, if you're heading to South East Asia, you have to cover your shoulders and knees when visiting temples. Two weeks of clothing, I feel, is the correct balance between weight and continual washing. I took:




  • 1x waterproof coat




  • 1x fleece




  • 1x beanie hat




  • 1x baseball cap




  • 3x t-shirts




  • 2x long-sleeved shirts




  • 1x pair of 'quick dry' trousers




  • 1x pair of trousers with 'zip-off' shorts




  • 1x pair of knee length shorts




  • 7x pairs of socks




  • 7x pairs of pants


Do not take jeans as there are heavy and a pain to dry. Shoes are the most important piece of clothing you'll take with you. Time is not wasted when purchasing footwear and getting it right is crucial. I went for a pair of 'Merrill approach shoes'; half trainer, half hiking boot, these lightweight, waterproof boots have been perfect. All the way through my travels, in any terrain, these shoes have felt comfortable and prevented my feet from blistering. Looking at them now they are full of holes but they are the heroes of my travels, taking me where I wanted to go without complaint. My sandals, on the other hand, weren't that comfortable; I'm not really a sandal person so maybe its because I haven't worn them much but they never felt right and would rub against my toes. Another important thing to do is to wear in your shoes before you go. If you decided that they aren't right purchase another pair; getting your shoes 100% correct is not a waste of money. If you take nothing from this post please chose your shoes carefully … have I stressed this point enough?


The rest of your baggage depends on your interests. For me this blog and photography were two important aspects of my travel and so I took a netbook (which, considering how much free wi-fi there is within Asia, has saved me a fortune), a Nikon SLR and a full length tri-pod with me. These three items have been heavy but worth carrying. I would also recommend bringing a compass; mine has helped me many times, most of which have been when hostel directions have instructed me to 'head south'.


Speaking of weight check out how much your bag weights by putting it on; as a rule of thumb if you can walk, with your pack on, for around forty minutes to an hour then you should have no problems. Making sure that the weight is evenly spread, within your pack, will make it more comfortable and putting things back in the same place will allow you to find possessions when all the lights, within your dorm, are out.

For a good kit list please read The Backpackers Bible.

Be Prepared


Read, read and read again. Read guidebooks, read blogs, read travel articles and get a good knowledge of how the country your visiting operates. From cultural taboos, to the weather to medical facilities you need to be prepared for anything the country can through at you; the beginning of guidebooks are especially good for this.


How to stay safe?

This is a huge topic therefore I've split it into the below sub-topics:




  • Food safety




  • Possession safety




  • personal safety




  • scams


Food



Whether its a restaurant or a street food stall the appearance of a food outlet has little to do with the quality. Once your meal has a arrived make sure that its piping hot; if the meat seems cool it's better to leave it than risk being ill. Salad is no safer than meat as the water used to wash it can be harmful. If you order tea make sure that the water has been boiled. Basically the hotter the food the better. If the meal isn't supposed to be hot cut into the middle, of any piece of meat, and make sure that its cooked all the way through. Anything deep fried should be fine and if an important day is coming up (for example sightseeing the temples of Angkor) I'd recommend eating fast food to make sure that you don't become ill.


Drinking coke with a meal is a wise choice; coke can destroy teeth and clean coins therefore it can also kill any bug within your stomach. When dining in a restaurant, for the first time, I'd usually order a coke with my meal; if all is well the next time I visit I'd have whatever drink I fancied.


Be careful of dairy products, salads and water. Purchase only brand name ice creams, check salads for water and drink only bottled water. It's not really needed but I used drinking water when I cleaned my teeth and even when I needed water boiled.

Possession safety


As you walk around a city try not to show off. Avoid wearing brand name clothes and, if you have an expensive camera, take the photo before concealing your camera once more. Use locks on your bags and walk on the pavement as far away from the road as possible (to avoid bag snatching). Keep your possessions in different places; my camera was in my bag, my wallet was in my front pocket (never my back) and my passport was stored within a concealed pouch along with a spare credit card.


Within hostels keep your stuff locked and tidy. I purchased a 'pack safe' net that could be placed around my bag if no locker was provided. Try not to show where you keep your wallet, phone etc whilst you sleep and make sure that no one is watching as you input your number combination into your pad lock. Number padlocks are always better than key padlocks encase of loosing said keys. Most hostels have a safety box which, personally, I rarely used. It's true that if your laptop gets stolen from your bag your insurance company might not pay if there was a safety box available, however some of the hostels I've stayed in looked a little dodgy. Don't leave money within your hostel room.


When traveling keep your possessions on you. If you need to leave your seat (to go to the toilet) do it whilst the vehicle is moving as that means no one can leave, or board, whilst you're away. Night travel is the worst; once again I would use my 'pack-safe' netting to lock up my bag with my possessions inside. Within South East Asia I've been told that some long distance buses hide people within the luggage compartments; there's nothing you can do about this apart from making sure that anything valuable is kept with you. In all honestly I'd avoid night travel as much as possible within poorer countries; most people argue that it saves on accommodation but I counter that by saying the view of the surroundings is worth the cost.


A final important message; keep your passport and bank cards safe at all times. Replacing either of these will be costly in both time and money. Keep checking that you know where they are and always keep them on you.

Personal Safety


When walking always make sure that you know where you're going; before leaving your hostel try to make a memory map for example, “walk past two roads then turn right, fifth street on the left”. Looking like you know where you're heading will make you less of a target. If you do get lost, and need to check your map, do it discreetly; if a change in direction is needed do it quickly. Try to stick to main roads as much as possible, especially at night. When dark try to keep to streets that are well lit and with plenty of traffic; if at all possible walk at night only in a group. The safety of a city cannot always be judged on how affluent the population is; when I was in 'Hoi An – Vietnam' a man shouted at two local girls, on bicycles, when they almost hit us. We were in the road, it was our fault, however tourism is so important that the population cannot afford anything bad to occur to any tourist. Finally if you don't feel safe out at night then there's no shame in returning to your hostel before it gets dark.


Personal safety within your hostel requires a little observation. Are there live wires anywhere? Are there screws sticking out of the floor? Does the door lock? Where's the fire escape? Simple questions like this that you'll answer without realising.


Personal safety on transport is a little out of your hands. Apart from choosing a seat that's properly bolted down, and wearing a seat belt if ones provided, there's little you can do to affect the manic driving you seem unable to believe. In those situations it's best not to think about it and looking out of the window.

Scams


There are a lot of scams out there which will leave your wallet empty and a bitter taste within your mouth. Most relate either to someone coming up to you in the street or local private transport (taxi's, tuk-tuks etc). Best thing to do is to walk, or take the local bus, around a city as both would avoid any potential transport problems. If someone approaches you in the street always keep asking yourself 'what do they want'. If someone asks to practice their English it's up to you whether you agree or not however, if they recommend going to a cafe, don't go. The price will be inflated and you'll end up paying hundreds of pounds, for tea, with your new friend nowhere to be seen. If you do want to go for a drink you recommend the place; McDonald's, or any fast food place, may not be the most comfortable but its the safest and easiest to find. Personally I gave both local transport providers, and students, a firm 'no'; it may sound horrible but it kept me safe.

Keep Organised


You will not believe the amount of receipts, directions, train tickets and other bits of paper you'll accumulate over your trip. Once a piece of paper is done with throw it away; I can see it becoming an annoyance if, with five minutes until departure, you can find only old train tickets instead of the one you need.

Looking back would I have changed anything?


I would have changed the allocated time for each country; I spent too long within South East Asia and, even though two South East Asian (SEA) weeks equal one Japanese or Kiwi weeks (due to cost), I would have removed six weeks within SEA and put two more within Japan and and another within New Zealand. Having said that, this change would have meant that I wouldn't have traveled with the same groups.


How much have I spent?


Taking into account my equipment, my European tour, my North American tour and my Australasian and Asian tour I think I've spent in the region of £21,000.00. It may seem a lot but in reality it's less than the cost of most cars and I certainly think the money has been well spent.


What wasn't I expecting?


Just how tired I got; I couldn't believe how tiring traveling was and, if you're not careful, you'll burn yourself out. There's nothing wrong booking into a hostel with nothing planned other than sleeping and playing cards. Believe me, there will be a time when doing nothing seems like the best thing to do.


Have Fun


For most the opportunity to travel only occurs once so enjoy it. If you plan to travel with a group make sure you do everything you want to, even if it means leaving the group for a couple of days. Enjoy a few nights out but don't waste this opportunity sitting at the hostel bar every night. Keep your mind open and smile when your train is four hours delayed, try to learn as much as you can and come home with as many stories as possible.


So where's next and when?


Where is easy; for me I want to explore my own country before visiting Ireland, Finland, Norway, Sweden, Denmark, Germany, Romania, Portugal, Spain in fact all of Europe. When is the difficult question; currently I'm broke and jobless. Once I've found a job – and once I've paid off my debts – I'll start traveling again but I have no idea when this will be. You can rest assure though, even though I'm currently at home this one otter will be back around the world … at some point!

Toodle Pip!

The Matt Awards


A bit like the Oscars but much more important 'The Matt Awards' put into context the best of the best. Looking for the country with the best beaches or the best food? Then look no further. This hasn't been an easy blog to finalise; many a Chinese train journey has been spent, with pen and paper in hand, making alterations to the finalists ... but below are my best three...



People


In 3rd position are the Japanese. Extremely helpful, polite and patient they're able to mix new scenarios with their old customs and beliefs. I never felt in danger and I was never ripped off; they would make every effort to guarantee that I was well, happy and enjoying myself.


In 2nd position are the Canadians. The only people who, when I was unable to find my hostel, would walk me to it. The Canadian's are lovely, laid back and very honest. It was a joy speaking to them and, every time I meet some on my travels, I was reminded of their generosity.


There could only be one nation that could ever win this category and that was the Fijians. Unbelievably friendly their laid back attitude makes Fiji what it is. For me the people were the best bit of this country and it's such a shame that most live in poverty.


Fittest women


In 3rd position are the ladies from New Zealand. It must be all the 'outside activities' but the female Kiwis seem to be in pretty good shape. The only problem was that, as they jogged into the distance, I never had the stamina to catch up and make sure that they weren't a tourist.


2nd Position goes to the ladies of Canada. Amazingly beautiful, kind, honest ... though a little mad, these women were stunning and spending the day on the beach, or hiking around a national park, always brought pleasant sights that you weren't expecting.


In 1st place – by a long way – are the women from Japan. I never found a minger; their attire was usually a tight top, short black skirt and knee length boots (no matter the weather). I never tired of taking a walk around town and it was always a pleasant experience.



Mountain Ranges


In 3rd is the Tiger Leaping Gorge, China. The worlds deepest gorge is surrounded by huge jagged peaks that stretch on for miles. The views, and the scenery, are incredible plus the whole gorge can be walked within two days but it's better to spend your time - spend three or four days - and admire the power of nature.


2nd place goes to Franz Joseph in New Zealand. Being able to walk up mountains, either side of a glacier, gives you unbelievable views. The mountains form an intriguing back drop to the small town and I loved every moment whilst I was there.


1st Place had to go to Jasper National Park within Canada. Take the gondola up Mount Whistler and enjoy the panoramic view. During my trip there have been countless times that I wished I was back within Jasper.



Lakes


In 3rd comes Lake Wanaka in New Zealand. The fact that this lake is a five minute walk away from the center of town makes it accessible. You can walk around most of the lake however it's huge; if your not into walking then grab a drink and sit on the grass bank overlooking the water with the mountains in the background.


2nd place goes to Lake Tekapo in New Zealand. With the church perched on the edge of the lake, it must be one of the most photogenic spots within the world. I spent a couple of days sitting and admiring the view.


In 1st place is Lake Agnes within Canada. Due to it's bigger sister – Lake Victoria – lying below this lake is hardly mentioned; however the two hour hike – up the mountains - is worth it for seeing the half frozen lake with the tops of mountains performing a barrier. A definition of beauty.


Beaches


The Pacific Rim National Park in Canada takes 3rd spot; Tofino has some beautiful beaches, with more just a bike ride away. Being located in Canada they can feel a little cold however, as a beautiful scenic spot, they are worth seeing.


2nd place goes to the Coral Coast on Fiji's main island. Located in the south the waters are crystal clear, warm and full of life. Once you're tired of snorkeling walking up onto the hot sand, surrounded by palm trees, and finding a shady spot to read a book and consume a beverage is bliss.


1st place goes to the Yawasa Islands of Fiji. Pick anyone and you'll find a white sandy beach with crystal clear waters. Being small islands means that very few people will be around to spoil the moment.



Road Trips


The Saskatchewan province of Canada gets 3rd place. The 'land of the big horizon' is well named as you stare at the panoramic view, from your coach window, at the endless fields of wheat. I never got bored of the site.


2nd goes to the Northern mountains of Laos. The driving was a little dodgy but the view didn't disappoint. The tropical mountains stood covered in greet vegetation of all types; the trip flew by as I kept my face pressed against the glass.


The Icefield Parkway in Canada comes in 1st; it's said to be one of the worlds most scenic drives and it lives up to that perfectly. Every view, from every angle, is one of beauty and you certainly don't want to be driving or you'll miss out. The road can be completed within a couple of hours however spend a couple of days and take in it's full beauty.



Boat Trips


Ha Long Bay in Vietnam takes 3rd place with it's award winning limestone peaks. Due to the fog the view wasn't that great but you could see the potential if you had a clear day. If you find yourself within Vietnam this is not to be missed.


The southern waters of Alaska, USA, take 2nd spot due to the wildlife. Whales are just the start and with glaciers falling into the waters it's a superb place to spend a day.


The winner is the ferry journey along the Alaskan, USA, north-western coast. Being able to sleep outside watching the sun go down, and then rise again in the morning, is a moment I'll never forget. Take a seat on the top level of the ferry, with a drink in hand, and just watch the small snow capped mountain islands appear before disappearing into the distance.



Ancient Wonders


The Terracotta warriors, within China, take 3rd place; visiting 'site one' and having several thousand faces looking at you is an awe inspiring site. Trying to work out the time taken to produce the army is mind boggling and, given how old they are, it's amazing that they are still in a good condition.


Just missing out on first place is the Great Wall of China. Located within the north of China the wall is a marvel to behold and the views, if you get a clear day, are stunning. It defines believe to think how old the wall is, and how long it took to build.


There can be no other winner; the temples of Angkor within Cambodia make you speechless. Each temple is different and the work involved took years. If I could go back in time this is certainly one place that I would want to see in it's full glory.



Cities


Sydney, Australia, is extremely photogenic. The harbor with the bridge, opera house and the parks make it a lovely place to spent an afternoon.


Hong Kong, China, is probably the worlds most prettiest city at night; cross the water to Kowloon and wait for the evening light show. The financial district is a maze of beautifully constructed skyscrapers and you'll leave with a smile on your face and a crick in your neck.


1st place goes to Quebec City, Canada. Stunningly beautiful it's the only walled city within North America. Even concrete fly-over pillars are painted beautifully and spending hours looking around the small cobbled streets is well worth the effort. After the first day there I didn't think things could have got any better, but the city kept on getting more and more beautiful.



Towns


Queenstown, New Zealand, takes 3rd place. A laid back town, located on the edge of a river, the whole town has been built to perfection. The streets are clean, the buildings look brand new and all the residents walk with a smile on their face. Crammed in between the lake and the mountains leaves you with so many options to spend your time.


In 2nd place is Dali, China. Also crammed between mountains and a lake the town is full of old Chinese buildings with their distinctive roofs. The skies are always blue, the temperature is always hot and the food is great.


The theme of lakes and mountains continues to 1st place. Wanaka, New Zealand, for me is the pretties town within the world; a lot smaller than the other two only adds to it's beauty and I often wish I was back there chilling out at the lake front.



Meals


Rammien, a Japanese dish, takes 3rd place. A spicy noodle soup rammien can take various forms all of which are a delight; I could have eaten this all day.


The 'Furg Burger', Queenstown New Zealand, takes 2nd place. Everyone thinks that North America have the best burgers within the world but you would be wrong; with all their produce sourced locally the 'Furg' is extremely tasty and the queues, at any time, are out the door.


1st place goes to Thailand and it's green curry. Pick any Thai dish and you'll love it but my favorite was this, mild, green curry. I have a Thai recipe book and so I hope I'll be eating more Thai food in the months to come.


Snacks


The famous Banana Routie – found all over South East Asia but mainly in Malaysia – is a very sweet snack. A pancake filled with sliced banana and topped with chocolate and condensed milk make this the South East Asian equivalent to the British 'Kebab' … best eaten after visiting the pub.


Malaysian spring rolls take the 2nd spot. Mainly within Melaka the spring rolls are fried and filled with steamed vegetables and covered in a spicy sauce. Once again great after a night out, or during the heat of the day.


1st place goes to Thailand's spring rolls. Almost identical to Malaysia the Thai spring rolls are smaller and more densely packed. Costing 25p for a bag of six – covered in the same spicy sauce as the Malaysian ones – this makes them a bargain and I ate hundreds.



Cakes


New Zealand's caramel cake, covered in coconut, takes the 3rd spot. I must have eaten miles of this cake as Kiwi supermarkets sold four, within a packet, at a very reasonable price.


Mont Blonc in Chang Mai, Thailand, is a very posh cake shop. The cakes are delicately presented making them almost as nice to look at as to eat. Slightly expensive the cost is soon forgotten with the first mouthful.


The winner is the Cargo restaurant within Hoi An, Vietnam. For a while, after visiting Hoi An, I would miss the morning cake I would order from this restaurant; each one was a delight and the cost wasn't too high. For me the cake alone is a just reason to visit Hoi An.



And that's it. As you would agree a lot shorted than the Oscars but a lot more important. If anyone is interested in the statistics I listed:


Canada eight times winning four,

New Zealand eight times winning once,

China five times winning none,

Thailand three times winning twice,

Fiji three times winning twice,

Japan three times winning once,

Vietnam twice times winning once,

USA twice winning once,

Malaysia twice winning none,

Cambodia once winning once,

Australia once winning none,

Laos once winning none,


However 'The Matt Awards' are not complete just yet; every award ceremony has to have a final 'outstanding award' and this ceremony is no exception. The exceptional experience award goes to Cambodia for allowing me to teach English, within a small village, located outside Phnom Penh. I loved every minute of my teaching and I hope the children did to; the memories of those three weeks will remain with me all my life and I hope those children grow up with all the opportunities they deserve. For future holidays I'm very tempted to do something similar as it's an experience that money just can't buy.


Just for a little bit of fun below are the worst three places that I've visited:


Laukota Fiji takes third place. The hostel I stayed in had cockroaches and there was nothing to do … at all. I was there three days and within that time I spent most of it keeping cool within the cinema. The cinema was cheap and I did get to see some enjoyable films.


Phnom Penh Cambodia takes 2nd. Filthy, busy and cramped I never felt safe out at night. There was a cockroach within my room here as well!


1st place goes to Savannakhet within Laos. Described as the 'Louang Phebang' of the south was totally misleading; seeing dead animals on the footpaths, unable to find a decent place to eat and the fact that hardly anyone seemed to live there made it a horrible environment to find myself in. I only stayed one night.


So that really is it; thank you and good night.


The final day


Monday 30th May 2011


0 days left traveling the world.



MP3 track of the day: The breaking of the fellowship – The Lord of the Rings



Weather: Hot in Beijing / raining and cold in London





As the sun rose, on my final day, I found that an alarm wasn't needed; I woke up, at 6am, of my own accord and began to get ready as quietly as possible. As I'd packed my bags the previous day, it didn't take long to get ready and soon I found myself walking towards the nearest underground station, lugging all my luggage. It was around 7am when the train arrived; I boarded and alighted two stops later transferring onto the airport line. The train was empty and I found four seats for me and my luggage. I stared out of the window viewing China for the last time; I was glad to leave China, however I wasn't glad that my travels were at an end.



Terminal three was a very impressive building; white floors, with a high orange roof, made the airport feel spacious, clean and futuristic. I'd arrived three hours early, however I was surprised to find check-in open. I joined the queue and, soon enough, I found myself facing a young Chinese lady in a yellow shirt. 'Two pieces of check-in luggage?' she asked, looking at my backpack and my suitcase. I shook my head slowly, looking down at the floor, as I asked if my suitcase could be taken on as hand luggage. Her eyes widened and with a, 'oh no', I knew that I wasn't going to win this fight; I opened the case showing her four, breakable, tea sets ... but her answer was still no. As a comprise she said that I could take the four tea sets on within four, smaller, individual bags; I thanked the lady and left the queue to re-pack my bag.

I placed my case on a wooden bench and opened it; with the four tea sets out I filled the case – not brilliantly I must admit – with anything I wouldn't need on the flight. I went back to the young Chinese lady who gave me an approving smile. The next problem was that my ticket only allowed one piece of 'check-in' luggage; forty-five pounds later and I saw both my backpack, and my suitcase, travel along a black conveyable and drop into the abyss. With a small rucksack on my back, and three bags within my hands, immigration, passport control and security was a little more difficult than normal however, after a while, I found myself within the airport lounge. The time was 9:30am; I still had nearly two hours before my flight was due to depart. Not only did I have the time but I had the cash to do some last minute shopping; I strolled through the shops uncomfortably, due to the amount of luggage, looking for something to spend my final Yuan on. Eighteen 'Kitkat Chunky White bars' later and I was left with 150 Yuan (£15) to change back into Pound Stirling.



I sat down, with the plane in view to my right; two rows back, and slightly to my left, sat a lady crying. I tried not to stare but I wondered why she was so upset; end of a good holiday? Leaving a loved one? I didn't know the answer however it made me realise that, out of all transport options, flights affect human emotion more than any other. Over the last year I've felt excited, nervous, sad and happy when boarding a flight; maybe this could explain why flying is more exhausting than any other transport method. My thoughts were suddenly interrupted with a boarding announcement; I waited for the queue to shorten before joining it. Once on the plane I found my seat occupied by a Chinese guy; I asked to see his ticket and informed him that he should be sitting two rows back. I placed my tea sets carefully within the luggage holdalls above and sat making sure that my belt was securely fastened. Next to me was a British bloke who'd spent his holiday within North Korea; as the plane prepared for take off I questioned him about the secret country finding it interesting and a potential future destination.



The plane got into the air and levelled out; it was at this point that the 'in-flight entertainment' came on and I browsed the 'new release films' to find 'The Kings Speech'. I plugged my ear phones into the socket provided and pushed play; the film was good though, with a lot of people talking it up, I was expecting more. Once the film had finished I immediately put 'Black Swan' (weird) on before watching 'Gulliver's Travels' (good film) and then 'The Tourist' (okay film, good twist at the end). By this time I'd been in the air for eight hours; with three hours left I was presented with my second meal ('sweet and sour' pork with rice … best Chinese meal I've had within the last two months) before watching 'Harry Potter: The Deathly Hallows part 1'.



I seemed to have timed it just right. Harry Potter finished just before the entertainment system was turned off and we made our decent. It was at this point that reality hit me ... I was home. I looked at the land below with 'job' being the only word coming into my head. Once in the airport I found myself viewing the 'connecting flights' noticing that New York, Washington and Toronto were all possible destinations. I took a deep breathe before following signs to the 'luggage pick-up' area, though I would have preferred to board one of those connecting flights. With every step reality was coming closer and closer; my year of travel had ended, I was broke and I would have to find a job. I picked my luggage up but, before leaving the luggage room, I paused looking at the roof. I've been on my own for so long, without the social pressures of getting a good job, owning a good house and portraying an image of success; for the last year seeing ancient structures, beautiful natural scenes and asking other travellers where they got the cheapest meal had been the most important aspects of my life and this would all change once I had walked through the door in front of me. I'm not afraid to say that I was scared, more scared than I'd been in a long time.



As I walked into the departure hall, with my luggage on a trolley, I saw my mum, sister and youngest brother waiting for me. I gave both my sister and mum a big hug before we started to chat like I'd never been away. My sister lead the way and I followed her to the car; she drove as we chatted, which lead to a rather strange route home (London to Derby ... via Southampton). I arrived home around 7pm. As I got out of the car nothing much had changed; my brother, sister in-law, and their three children greeted me, along with my dad, within the lounge and I gave them their presents (relieved to loose the weight). As I scanned the room I found photos, of me, that I'd taken from my trip. As I tried to remember where each shot had been taken a large lump within my throat started to appear; so many memories and so many places.



I finally went to bed around 11pm UK time, twenty-four hours after I'd got up. As I lay in bed I looked around noticing just how much I had to do. Unpacking, mail and editing my photos ... there was hours of work. Still this was a good thing; as I closed my eyes I realised that I had to keep busy or else I would just sit, eat chocolate, and reminisce. My one year of travel has been the best decision of my life and with 64,174 miles covered (that's the equivalent of driving around the world two and a half times!), it truly has been an epic journey. So this otter is no longer around the world, that much is true. However I can almost guarantee that I will be back around the world … the only question is when.



Toodle Pip!

Sunday, 29 May 2011

China


So, the final write up for my final country. China's been an interesting country that took a while for me to like. Coming from South East Asia I was expecting things to improve and, whilst material things did seem to be of a higher standard, the way the Chinese people conducted themselves was, at times, disgusting. However, once I got to chat to the individual Chinese person I realized that things weren't as bad as they first appeared. Whilst I wouldn't put China up with the likes of Canada, Japan and New Zealand I wouldn't say that I haven't enjoyed it; China, at times, has left me captivated, appalled, amazed and disgusted; it's a very captivating country that, currently, is changing from day to day.


Before I start to divulge details of the different aspects of China, and it's 1.5 billion population, I'll first list my favorite experiences within this vast country:


1) Tiger Leaping Gorge – Equally as stunning as the Rockies of Canada, the glaciers of Alaska and the lakes of New Zealand, this is the world’s deepest gorge. Fast running water, steep vertical mountain sides and beautiful weather all made this place a scene that everyone should witness. The hike to the bottom was uneventful though the views, once down, were great. The gorge made me feel very small.


2) The Great Wall of China – You've seen the photos, but until you're stood on the wall you cannot begin to grasp the sheer size, and the awe, of the place. Not only is the wall a marvel in itself, but the mountainous landscape around is just as attractive. Walking part of the wall is a joy and money should not be spared.



3) The Terracotta Warriors – It doesn't seem to matter how many photos of these warriors you see, viewing 'site one', with your own eyes, with leave you breathless. With the pleasant landscaped site of the tomb of Qin Shi, within a ten minute walk, the whole package makes for a superb day out.



4) Hong Kong – The design of every skyscraper, within Hong Kong's financial district, has been through with intricate detail. Due to the sheer volume of people, walking around maybe a little stressful; however you'll leave with a crick in your neck as you continually look up to the sky. The tram up to a viewing platform, the aviary and Hong Kong's recent history all add to its charm but I doubt any other city looks as beautiful as Hong Kong at night. Be warned, Hong Kong island is a lot bigger than you might think and a good week would be required to see all this place has to offer.



5) The Shanghai Formula One – Okay not strictly a site but I enjoyed myself no less here than visiting any of the above. Due to the track’s design you can see almost all of the action from any seat. Add to this the cheap ticket cost, the easy tube link from the city and the fact that Shanghai has an international airport and you have the recipe for a great weekend. The only negative is that Formula One doesn't seem that popular within China and so the atmosphere isn't as electric as other tracks.



Below I'll delve into the different aspects of traveling within China:


Accommodation


Accommodation is a steal at, on average, £2.50 per night for a dorm room. All hostels are unbelievably clean, have great facilities and most are affiliated to 'Hosteling International' making your stay even cheaper. The best thing about hostels has to be the staff; always helpful, no question seems too much and they will write anything you request within Chinese. Without the staff at the hostels I have no idea how I would have traveled around China.


Transport


The train is king. There are many different seats ranging from a hard seat to a soft sleeper. Whereas the hard seat may seem a steal at 1/3 of the price of a soft sleeper it could be seen as a false economy. With a soft sleeper you get a waiting room, within the train station, where it's easy to identify when, and where, your train will be leaving. If you purchase a hard seat then outside of the station is where you'll have to wait and information is rarely communicated. Once on the train, within a soft sleeper birth you have the luxury of sharing with only three other people; if you opt for the hard option the carriage is open and you could be sharing with fifty. Add to this that with cheaper seats comes poorer people and, what should be a pleasant ride, might turn into a nightmare as you worry about your possessions, try to keep out of the way of huge bundles of farm produce and queue for hours at the only toilet.


Buses seem the same as anywhere else within the world; the sleepers are a little more refined that within South East Asia however shoes have to be removed before boarding. The speed is generally good and the leg room seems adequate. Mini-vans are rarely used for long distances and are more confined to day trips.


Flying within China is cheap and, if strapped for time, is a viable option. 'Ctrip' is a good website to book through but be warned, with so many flights some do get canceled.


Overall traveling within China is pleasant though be prepared to leave a lot of time. Even though you hear stories of China building the 'worlds longest bridge', or the 'fastest rail line' most of the network requires patience with many delays and cancellations; days, rather than hours, are needed.



Weather


When I'd left the sweat box of South East Asia I'd hoped that, traveling north, meant cooler days. This occurred on the east coast – with Shanghai being very cold at times – but the further west I went the hotter it became. Chengdu seemed hotter than Hanoi and my shorts had to make a reappearance; the south-western province of Yunnan was a little cooler, than its northern neighbour, but that's because of it's high altitude.


Money


China was a lot cheaper than I expected. Accommodation was stupidly cheap and the trains, considering the distances, were good value for money. A flight to anywhere within China always seemed to be around the £100 mark and, considering the size of the country, the price could be justified. Food was mixed depending on what you wanted; forgetting taste a plate of noodles could cost around £1. Want something a little more interesting and you're looking at £3/£4. Attractions were stupidly expensive making me choose carefully what to see and what to avoid. A student card – whether real or fake – would have proved very beneficial as most entrance fees were halved or became free.


People


My biggest annoyance, and yet once of my favorite aspects of China, the population could seem to be so disgusting and then so friendly within a heartbeat. The sheer size of the Chinese population is the first problem; hit any major city and trying to find a peaceful spot is impossible. Transport, attractions and main shopping streets are packed leaving you unable to move without hitting someone's shoulder. The fact that the Chinese like to travel in huge tour groups means, once the coaches have been sighted, I often calculate whether the attraction is still worth seeing. Like their South East Asian cousins most Chinese seemed to have had their common sense removed from birth; when driving they rarely look in any direction apart from straight, they go through red lights without concern, take up the whole pavement and push until they can push no more. It's mind boggling how a nation who built the Great Wall cannot work out why walking towards oncoming traffic, if there isn't a pavement, might prove beneficial.


Spitting on the streets and spitting within transport stations is disgusting and not needed. I disagree that this is apart of China's culture as the young seem to do it less than the middle aged or the elderly. The children here wear trousers with slits at the back; as they walk you can see their bottoms and not only is it humiliating but the fact that they're designed to allow children to relieve themselves anywhere (and they do relieve themselves anywhere; footpaths, buses, gardens etc) is beyond belief. Both of these aspects have made me leave my 'open-toed' sandals firmly within the bottom of my bag.


English is rarely spoken from somebody older than twenty meaning that getting around, or getting what you want, is a mission. Going into McDonald's and receiving two 'Chicken sandwich meals', rather than a large 'Chicken nugget meal', should show you just how hard communicating is. I tried to avoid doing things that weren't important as the hassle, plus time, would out weigh the benefit gained. Staring, from the elderly in particular, is frustrating and hearing laughing, as you pass people by, always leaves a sour taste within your mouth. Around Yunnan the staring wasn't so bad but in other provinces people almost walked into bins, lampposts and crossed through red lights as all their concentration was firmly focused at me. I don't know why, surely they have seen plenty of white people; if not ... watch TV!


Pushing seems to be another favourite of the old; seeing no problem in gaining a few places, at the expense of their fellow citizens, the old will push through the tiniest gap thinking nothing of pushing people over, even women with children. It's a barbaric act that seems completely the reverse of what communism should stand for. However, go into a park and all the above seems to be left at the gates. The old either join their individual exercise groups, or play cards, or play Chinese chess at a number of tea houses. Their voices seem to lower and spitting rarely occurs; parks are the only location where I've enjoyed their company.


Having said all this the young are China's saving grace; very polite, with a basic understanding of English, they seem to be inquisitive wanting nothing more than to ask a few questions and practice their English. You still have to be on your guard but most seem genuine and the offer of drinks, paying for rides and helping you out with translations makes me hopeful that China, given another thirty years, will become an excellent place to visit.


The only traits both age groups seem to share are, I'm afraid, negative. Eating with their mouth open is horrible and they seem to take pleasure in trying to make as much noise as possible. Speaking of noise the Chinese seem unable to be quiet; either they're shouting to the person next to them, they're shouting down their phone or they're just shouting but parks, hikes and temples are ruined by the constant droning sound. Smoking doesn't seem to be a social taboo and it doesn't even occur to them that smoking in someone’s face, or leaving your ash all over a PC keyboard, might seem inappropriate.


Infrastructure


Stories of China building the tallest building, the longest bridge or the biggest theme park consume global newspapers and yet, with all that boasting, most of the countries infrastructure is average at best. The train network seems slow and some roads are unpaved; but on a whole both are adequate if a little time consuming. Plumbing is up to the same standard as the rest of Asia; hostels are well equipped with modern facilities and with free wireless internet access everywhere – though being able to connect is another story – is extremely beneficial.


The government seems determined to block parts of the internet; it would appear that this is a power trip the government is on and some blocked sites seem illogical. It's true that this blog has been blocked, since I crossed the boarder, and yet my blogs have been posted. Many Chinese students have asked to swap Facebook details and so there are ways around the government’s ridiculous attempt at blocking free speech. One way, which I used a lot, was a website called 'remain hidden' (http://www.remainhidden.com/) though I'm sure that there are others.


Signs within China are comical. Signs translated into English are located everywhere but it seems the Chinese have chosen which signs to translate. Sometimes their choices have been beneficial; road names, with a north, south, east or west direction printed on them, have helped me a lot but train station names, attraction names and signs to said attractions all remain in Chinese. I've found no end of 'entrance', 'mind your head' and 'slippy floor' signs all of which I could have worked out for myself; what I really wanted to know is if the train station in front of me is the north, or the south, station.


Food

The food within China has been a huge disappointment. At first it was hard to find Chinese restaurants, let alone communicate with the staff, and once found the food was bland and uninteresting. For a while McDonald's, KFC and Subway became my standard food outlets but as I moved into the province of Yunnan menu's started to be translated into English. I tried the hot pot, noodles and rice dishes expecting the spicy sauces from home but it rarely came; the most tasteful Chinese dish I consumed came from either a pot noodle or from western dishes; the Chinese seem to be able to cook an excellent pizza. I knew that the UK Chinese take-away had been altered to fit English tastes but I never realised just how much; the food within Vietnam, Thailand and Malaysia was so much nicer.


Driving


Driving is impossible, within China, as a tourist is forbidden to get behind the wheel. This is a good thing as China's ability to drive is similar to South East Asia. Once more notice is rarely given to traffic lights and scooters drive on the road, or on the pavement, depending on which seems faster. There seems to be a culture within China that 'if I don't get caught it's not wrong' and that is no more evident than when watching them drive. There are 'traffic helpers' at every major intersection but they are ignored by pedestrians, and vehicles, a like as both try to weaving their way around the other.


Would I come back?


I'm planning too! However next time I would stay clear of the east and inner parts of China. For me there are too many people to make it worth the effort; if I do come back then I'll visit the province Yunnan – as it's beautiful – before heading into Tibet and then the barren northern provinces of China.


Would I recommend China to others?


Yes but I would recommend spending as little time as possible within Beijing, Shanghai, Xi'an and Chengdu and spending as much time within the province of Yunnan. See the Great Wall, see the Terracotta Warriors but make it quick and then relax within Yunnan where you can actually escape the crowds.


Conclusion


China is a mixed country of the old and the new, the good and the bad. The range of extremes are wide and this can make the country extremely infuriating and brilliant at the same time. Currently it would appear that the Chinese government isn't interested in foreign tourism; with the lack of English signs, the difficulties in traveling around and the uncivilised actions of there older residents China, at first, can seem to have been a bad holiday destination. However, given time and patience, the country will open to you and, with the young seeming so civilised, I have hope that within the next thirty years foreign tourism will be seen as important as internal.


Toodle Pip!


I want to be ... an Olympian


Sunday 29th May 2011




1 day left traveling the world.




MP3 track of the day: Twenty four hours - Athlete




Weather: It's been hoooot all day, and the smog has been unbearable.












Up early I went for 'first breakfast' before returning to my dorm. I got back around 9:30am and was surprised to see all, bar two people, out of bed. One guy, still asleep, was 'PC Man'; this is the guy who was on his computer, at 2am, a few nights ago and I've yet to see him without his PC on; he's on it all day, and all night, and rarely leaves the hostel. I didn't feel guilty, re-packing my bag, as 'PC man' tried to sleep and it took forty-five minutes to, eventually, be left with one large rucksack, one small rucksack, one hard suit case and one shopping bag. The suit case, shopping bag and small rucksack is all 'hand luggage'; I stared at it wondering how on earth I was going to persuade the airline to board me with this lot. Still this was a problem for another day; I left, went for 'second breakfast' (which consisted of cake) and walked into town.




My first target for today was the circular 'Beijing Concert Hall'. Designed like a large dome, water surrounded it allowing for a reflection to make it appear 'egg shaped'. I walked around the building taking many photos. Due to it being located within the centre of town the building didn't have any grounds, therefore it didn't take long to see all there was to see. Still, I wouldn't say that it was a disappointment; The 'Beijing Concert Hall' was very photogenic and it's certainly one of my favourite modern constructions that I've seen whilst travelling. I left the concert hall after thirty minutes and walked in an easterly direction. I could have entered an underground station within minutes, however I decided to walk to one half an hour a way. There were many reasons for my decision; firstly, if I'd boarded earlier, I would have had to change trains twice, to get to the station that I was planning on boarding from. Secondly I'm fed up of the 'underground squeeze' and thirdly you see a lot more when walking. After a quick 'pit stop', for a Sprite, I eventually made it to 'Dongan' station where I boarded a train heading north, on line five, before transferring to line thirteen and then, finally, transferring to line eight. It was a lot of hassle and I decided, once I'd seen the Olympic area, I'd walk back to my hostel as, I reckon, it would be quicker.




The underground trains, and stations, got posher and posher the nearer I got to the Olympic area. Whilst listening to my music, on the final leg of the journey, a boy tapped me on my shoulder. I took out my ear phones to find that him, and his brother, were with their mother on their way to the Olympic park. The mum wanted her children to practice their English which, considering I couldn't go anywhere, I agreed. Once the train stopped at its terminus – the northern part of the park – all four of us alighted and we continued chatting until I found some sculptures that I wanted to see. The mum said thank you and I replied by wishing them a good day. The park – which consisted of a long stone path, small gardens on each side, and a lake at the northern tip – would have been much nicer if it hadn't been for the sheer amount of smog. I haven't seen smog this bad before; tops of buildings disappeared into thick white clouds never to be seen again. I walked south along the path, heading into the gardens on either side when a sculpture came into view. It took a while to get to Beijing's 'Olympic Stadium' (i.e. the birds nest) which was impressive, though it lost its appeal due to the smog swirling around it. I didn't stay long; I took a few photos and then left the area holding my breath, eating an ice cream and heading south.




It took an hour to walk back to my hostel. I went in, put my camera within my locker, and went to the hostels restaurant for lunch. It's the first time that I've dined here and, I have to say, that it was good. I ordered a cheese burger and a … vanilla shake; when I saw, 'vanilla shake', on the menu my mind was cast back to Phnom Penh where vanilla shakes were my favourite drink. Once I'd received my drink, I was happy to find that it tasted exactly the same as the ones within Cambodia. Why hadn't I dined here before? I left the restaurant, determined to be back later for another vanilla shake, for a quick walk around Beijing. I returned around 5pm where I briefly went on the internet before grabbing a lovely, long, shower. I had tea, checked into my flight and went for an early night. Even though my flight doesn't depart until 11:15am I still want to arrive, at the airport, around 8am; I've got a lot of 'hand luggage begging' to do and, if I can't take it all on the plane, some emergency re-packing will have to happen. It's going to be weird seeing 'London' on the departure board.




Toodle Pip!

Saturday, 28 May 2011

Shopping, acrobatics and a dead guy


Saturday 28th May 2011



2 days left traveling the world.



MP3 track of the day: Show must go on - Queen



Weather: Without the usual breeze it's been hoooot all day.











I walked out of my hostel, around 8:30am, leaving my camera, and my mobile phone, within my locker. As I walked towards my local underground station I formed a 'plan of action' for the day; first of all I'll have breakfast, and then I'll go to see Chairman Mao before clothes shopping. I made my way to Tienanmen square where, before joining the horrendous queue to see Mr Mao, I went for a quick bite.



After breakfast I returned to the square and joined a queue consisting of Chinese looking people. I tried to blend in but my height, colour and the fact that I wasn't wearing a 'tour group baseball cap' gave me away. I stood as far from the guards as possible and never made eye contact. The queue circled Mao's mausoleum which was a square building, located within the middle of Tienanmen Square; the queue moved at a steady pace and it didn't take long to reach security. 'Camera!' a stern female guard asked me; I shook my head and I was allowed to proceed into the mausoleums gardens. As the queue edged forward I studied the gardens liking the way the red flowers – constructed to form a pattern – were surrounded by grass and fern trees blocked the outside world from view. Once inside the first hall had a white marble sculpture, of Mr Mao, sitting on a seat with his legs crossed and flowers all around him. I could have purchased a yellow rose, to lay at his feet, but I didn't. Unlike 'Uncle Ho', Mao's final resting place was on the ground floor, in a separate hall, behind said sculpture. With my hat off, head bowed and a sad expression upon my face, I went into the chamber trying not to laugh. Finally Chairman Mao came into view; he was lined in a similar coffin to Ho Chi Minh, with a communist red flag drooped over his legs. Apparently the Vietnamese helped the Chinese entomb him. I have to say that he's a lot shorter than I thought he would be, and he did look a little plastic. I slowly walked by and then, once past, quickened my pace and left the mausoleum through the back entrance.



Once again I found myself on the underground; this time, however, I was heading to a station called 'Yong'anli' where the silk market could be found. The name, silk market, isn't quite suited for the five storey clothes complex I found myself in. Exit 'B', from the underground station, entered into the heart of the market and, only three stores in, I was accosted by a short, Chinese lady, asking me to 'buy something'. I found myself within the basement level, where shoes played the dominant role. This lady had one pair of red, and one pair of blue, converse that I liked very much; she said that she had my size and so, as her sister ran off to their warehouse, we made small talk focusing on where I've been. It took an age for her sister to return but, within her hands, were two pairs of converse my size. I asked how much and then the lady started the – what was to come – usual speech of 'these are real leather, well made and retail at £70. But, just for me, I'll discount them to £50'. I smiled and started to walk away but she blocked my move, calculator in hand, asking me what was my final price. I typed '£5' into the calculator and she frowned asking for £45. I continued to lace up my shoes and, as I did, the price kept falling until we got to £6.50. She was a really nice person, and we'd laughed a lot, therefore I agreed to purchase both pairs for £13. She frowned at me saying that I was a 'hard bargainer', to which I suggested she go to Cambodia for bargaining lessons.



I continued to walk past hundreds of stalls all selling the same items; ladies would grab my arm and shout 'look in my shop', or 'want bag' or some other call. I would either oblige, say no or walk by giving a witty remark. In a couple of stores I was prevented from leaving, by the saleswoman continually shadowing my moves. Now, you would have though that I would have hated this experience … but I found myself loving it. Some, of the saleswomen, were a little rude but most were up for a laugh and I had a great time joking as I shopped. I walked down many isles, and up many floors, eventually spending £150 on:



3 – pairs of converse (1x red, 1x blue and 1x black and white)


1 – pair of trainers (white)


1 – belt


1 – jacket


1 – polo shirt


2 – shirts


5 – beanie hats


1 – bag



Everything above was a 'designer label', though I would question there authenticity. I had a great time but, as I checked my wallet, I had £4 remaining. Spending a little more than I wanted I left the market, satisfied with my purchases, and took the underground back to my hostel. Once back I went to the local bank to withdraw £40, before having lunch and then waiting for my acrobatics pick-up. The time was 5pm and my pick-up was due within thirty minutes. At 5:30pm, on the dot, the receptionist tapped me on my shoulder indicating that my pick-up had arrived. I, and another British bloke called Andy, found ourselves within a mini-van being driven through the crowded streets of Beijing. It took an hour to get to the theatre; the driver pointed to a building, on the opposite side of the road, indicating that it was said theatre. With an hour to kill Andy and I wandered the surrounding streets chatting about our individual trips; time flew and we soon found ourselves, at the theatres entrance, fifteen minutes before the performance started. If we'd known that there was no seat allocation we would have entered earlier; as it was the theatre wasn't full and we still managed to get good seats ... though they were off to the left a little.



We continued to chat until the lights went down and a golden robbed figure appeared on stage. It would appear that the performance told a story - as well as being full of acrobatics - though what the story was I had no idea, as it was told in Chinese. The golden figure disappeared, through a trap door, and a clown – who, I think, was supposed to be a narrator – seemed to be continually on stage as each act came and went. The show was fantastic; it started with a dance routine before moving onto human balancing acts. I sat captivated as performers balanced on top of one another using only one hand. Other acts included a evil looking dude who 'face changed', people flipping through rings, people balancing on rings, a juggler and a group of girls playing with a cone thing which they threw up into the air, and caught on a piece of string. The final act was the most impressive; the stage doors opened and out came a huge metal ball. Motor bikes would be driven into said ball and they would do loops within. At one point four bikes were whizzing around, almost hitting each other. As the entertainers came on stage, for their final round of applause, I was satisfied with my end to my tour. The show had been stunning and only the audience (plus, as the juggler was on-stage, I could see some female acrobats practising to the left of a stage screen) had put a slight dampener on the event, with their photo taking and chatting. Still I didn't let it bother me; I exited the theatre wishing the show had gone on for longer than an hour. Once back at the hostel I went on the internet – to find the F1 qualifying results – before retiring for an early night.



So tomorrow is my final day around the world. I thought about making it manic, however I quite like the idea of a lazy day. I think I'll have a lie-in before packing my bags and, in the evening, I'll have a shower but, apart from that, I haven't got anything else planned. Current thoughts, on how to spend the day, include:



- crying


- eating lots and lots of cake ... before crying


- or going out for a walk – sightseeing Beijing's Olympic buildings – before visiting a park



I think I'll decided tomorrow morning.



Toodle Pip!