Go on My Son!

Tuesday 22^nd March 2011

MP3 track of the day: Pictures of you – The Cure

Weather: Hot in Hoi An, but with a cool breeze. The 'My Son' temples are located within the mountainous jungle to the southwest of Hoi An; this location made the site very humid, however it was quite overcast so it wasn't too hot.

GOOOD MORNING VIETNAM

Last night I made two decisions; firstly that I would purchase the painting that I liked and secondly that I would go to the riverfront tomorrow to take some night photos. I had been debating about this one painting for the last two days and now, I had made a decision, I could get some sleep.

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I got up on time. I managed to eat a quick breakfast consisting of one bread roll, a slice of butter, some jam and a bottle of water before Kim and I got summoned, to this giant yellow coach, located on the road just outside the hostel. This coach had seen better days; most of the seats upholstery was stained, some seats were broken, the air-conditioning didn't work and I, yet again, couldn't fit my legs into the space provided. Luckily though the coaches horn worked fine … and the coach driver proved this numerous times throughout the journey. We spent a good thirty minutes picking other tourists up within Hoi An until the coach was almost full. It was at this point we started to head out of the city and towards the temple complex.

Our tour guide turned to face us, he took of his sun glasses and gave us a smirky smile. He was a short guy (though, for a Vietnamese bloke, he was probably average height) with a western style hat and a piercing voice. He introduced himself as 'Dong' and said welcome to the 'My Son' (pronounced 'Me Sun') tour. He explained that he was actually a free-lance tour guide and, as I caught him reading from prepared notes, I was overjoyed thinking that he probably new less about the site that I. His English was okay and he spoke extremely clearly, which made a world of difference. He began by giving us the load down on the tour, the times of arrival, departure and the fact that we had to pay for our entry ticket (just like when I went to the Cu Chi tunnels). He then provided a little background before letting us enjoy the view. The surrounding countryside started off with the usual, but no less boring, bright green paddy fields. All of a sudden we hit the mountains and those paddy fields gave way to extremely dense jungle. The humidity was rising and, without any air-conditioning, the coach was getting hot.

I was glad to get off the coach; I was already pretty sweaty and my legs were hurting from being cramped. We had a little time to get our bearings, go to the 'happy room' (the toilet) and, of course, purchase refreshments and gifts. We were then taken over to where a huge map of the region was located. My group (which 'Dong' had named 'tiger group' for some bizarre reason … we aren't three you know!) sat down while our tour guide grabbed a wooden stick and began to talk about the area. 'My Son' was the capital city of the Champa empire, built between the seventh and thirteenth centuries (this means the site predates Angkor Wat). On this site Cham kings are buried in individual temples therefore the whole area is considered spiritual. 'My Son' was given UESCO status in 1999; one of the main reasons for this was because of the unique brickwork found. 'Dong' began to explain that the bricks the Cham's used weren't held together by any mortar; in fact it looks as though they were just placed on top of each other and fitted perfectly. The method of construction is so alien that neither archeologists, or UESCO experts, can give an explanation to how this building method was practiced and became successful. It's great that there are still some mystery's within this world, however the downside is that any conservation work done looks very different to the original due to the use of mortar.

I was starting to like 'Dong'. Fears of him just reading from a guidebook evaporated within his opening speech and he did seem to have a way of keeping me interested. He also seemed a little drunk due to his unusual, and sudden, movements … he was a character. We finally started to walk to site 'B' and 'C', the best preserved sites within the 'My Son' area. Looking at my watch, and remembering 'Dong's' time schedule, we only had one hour and forty-five minutes to see all sites. I thought this was tight however, due to the humidity of the jungle, I really didn't mind. The walk towards the site was lovely; unlike Angkor Wat a lot of the jungle wasn't cut back and so you could imagine the French discovering this ancient site for the first time.

When we arrived at site 'B' and 'C' it became obvious that one hour and forty-five minutes was ample time to see the sights. The map had made 'My Son' look bigger than it actually was; in reality site 'B' and 'C' only occupied a fifty meter squared area. 'Dong' took us around and showed us the difference between original stonework and the conservation work. He also showed us many decapitated statues and said that the heads had been taken by the French and were now in a museum within Paris. The tour was okay; 'Dong' spoke clearly and the visit was well paced. The lack of things to see, compared to Angkor Wat, didn't spoil the tour due to the location of said temples. High mountains, covered in dense jungle, surrounded the whole area.

Our guided tour took a little over an hour. We were then given forty-five minutes to explore site 'A' and 'H'. The other sites (Lettered D,E,F,G and K) were out of bounds either due to conservation work, or the possibly of UXO's being around. During the Vietnam War the Americans bombed this area suspecting it to be a Vietcong stronghold. It wasn't. The Americans therefore partly destroyed a priceless archeological site for nothing. I was looking forward to going up to see Site 'A'; sure there wasn't much there however, due to it being quite open, a nice cool breeze could be found. At this point I had been sweating buckets. After site 'A' I strolled down past site 'K', through some rather nice woodland, and back to the car park. The time, 11:40am.

We left at 11:45am and headed to the riverfront. I had paid the optional $2 to take the boat back to Hoi An which would take an hour longer than the coach. On the way we would call into a woodcarving village and were given lunch on the boat (as lunch usually costs me $3/4 anyway I saw this as a saving). I was surprised to see a fairly newish boat (when I say 'new' I mean not wooden) with an observation deck. Lunch was already out on the tables and so we eat whilst 'Dong' talked about the next leg of our trip. The meal was the usual vegetables with rice however, with bottles of chilli sauce on each table, it made the meal bearable. I finished eating just as 'Dong' finished talking; we were then given a while to just enjoy the view … which to be honest, wasn't that spectacular.

After an hour we docked at this small island. To my left, across the river, I could see the beginning of Hoi An ... we were only ten minutes away. Once off 'Dong' took us to a boat building workshop (well, when I say workshop, I mean a bamboo framed building covered with leaves). He began to explain how these boats were made, the fact they take two weeks to complete and that they were made out of monogamy wood (imported from Laos). He finished off by smirking and informing us that the retail price, of each finished boat, was around £600 … less than a Honda scooter. We moved onto a proper woodcarving workshop where we saw some Vietnamese men creating wooden, hand-sculptured, furniture. Within the building were the usual souvenirs along with some very unique wooden pieces. It was here that I decided that I love wood as a material; the colours, and the warmth, make it so much more interesting than metal or glass. We were then showed other workshops which held little interest. We finally made it back to the boat and docked, within Hoi An town center, around 2pm.

Kim wanted to get some knives, and a painting that she had seen, whereas I wanted to get my painting. I went with her for the knives and we then split up. As Kim was purchasing her painting I went and found the shop that sold the one I liked. The canvass was painted in a very rich, light blue. Just off center was a Vietnamese lady riding her bicycle. She was also in blue and it looked as though she was disappearing into the background. The piece was very simple, yet effective … and it cost $30!

How much! I said. As both of Kim's paintings had cost $25 each I decided to have yet another think. I walked back to meet Kim thinking about the painting. I did like it and in reality they were only asking £20.00 for an original work of art. However, for me, it wasn't perfect so I wasn't prepared to spend that amount. When I found Kim she had just finished her transaction; we both went back to my shop and bartered for the blue Vietnamese lady. Eventually Kim managed to barter them down to $25 which I accepted. Kim was extremely good at bartering and I was very thankful. Due to Kim purchasing two paintings at $25 each I didn't think I was ripping the artist off; however, considering how long it took to bargain him down, I feel I got a fair price. They took the piece out of it's frame, rolled it up, and put it inside a piece of plastic tubing usually used for plumbing. The tube is extremely tough and so, instead of posting another parcel home, I have no objection to carrying it within my big bag. So there you are … I have purchased my first ever original piece of art. It felt rather good.

Due to having spent a fortune here within Hoi An I skipped 'cake and hot chocolate' and headed back to my hostel. I chilled for a while before taking some night photos of Hoi An later in the evening. I booked my coach, for tomorrow morning, to Hue … and Kim did the same. We then headed out for our final meal in Hoi An … which ended up including 'cake and hot chocolate' (I am so rubbish at compromising). The food here is delicious and I am really going to miss it. I got back to my dorm a decent time, due to having to get up at 6:15am tomorrow morning, and went to sleep. It's with the deepest regret that I leave Hoi An. I have loved it here and I wish that I could stay longer. The only problem is that if I do stay longer, I know I will end up purchasing more wonderful possessions. For my wallets sake I have to move onto Hue.

Toodle Pip!

I love this country

Monday 21^st March 2011

MP3 track of the day: The Importance of being Idle - Oasis

Weather: Very hot, yet there's a gentle, cooling, breeze making it's way off the river and through the narrow streets of Hoi An.

GOOOD MORNING VIETNAM!

8am came and I just couldn't get back to sleep, though I had snoozed for almost ten hours. Since early February I have been getting up rather early and so, I think, my body is well and truly stuck within that routine. Once up I had a long shower. As breakfast isn't included I went out into town; I knew where I wanted to go.

Within my guidebook a restaurant was recommended for it's cakes. Having 'Blue Pumpkin' withdrawal symptoms I went to investigate; as I peered through the glass counter the cakes certainly looked good however it was too early for any heavy chocolate cake. I opted for a light cheesecake and a hot chocolate. Both were expensive, however both were mouth watering. Feeling content I paid and walked back towards my hostel. Having found, sampled and concluded about these cakes it now presented me with a problem. I know that I will want to go back, but it is rather expensive. I've been told that the food in Hoi An is fantastic and so far I would agree. I got back to my hostel where I got out my computer (to find out that we are basically at war with Libya) to upload hundreds of photos from the past few days.

By midday I put my computer away and headed out into the town. For the next three hours I walked around and eat lunch. As I had seen most of the center I decided to walk across a bridge to the other side of the river. The 'other side'; every map you see, or receive, shows the ancient town center of Hoi An and then stops at the riverfront. It shows where the bridges cross the river but not what's on the 'other side'. It's like the Vietnamese tourist authorities don't want you to venture forth. Standing on the riverfront I looked across to the 'other side' and it looked rather pleasant, just a mirror image of the what I had already seen. I started to walk across this motorbike / pedestrian bridge, fully expecting there to be a glass screen blocking my path. There was not. The bridge was very beautiful; it had Chinese lanterns hanging down from the railings and the floor looked like it was made out of marble.

I made it to 'the other side'. After having lunch (which was cheaper, but just as nice, as eating in the old center itself) I went to have a wonder around starting with the riverfront. The sky was a beautiful light-blue colour and this allowed me to get a few good photos. I then went deeper into the urban area to find a similar sort of layout as the town center. Three main roads running horizontally with smaller streets cutting through vertically. After the three main roads was yet another riverfront. It all seemed a little bizarre, like a mirror image of the town itself. The main difference between the two sides was that this one was more residential. After looking around I headed back into the town center for yet more wonderings.

Now you might think that, walking down the same roads, would start to get a little bland ... but it didn't. The atmosphere here is lovely and it's a pleasure just to stroll leisurely through town, again, looking at the yellow buildings and goods on sale. I met up, briefly, with the three girls from London before taking more photographs focusing on 'urban settings'. For me Vietnam just gets better and better; Hoi An is starting to become my favorite place within South East Asia. But there's nothing to do – I hear you cry. Well actually there's quite a bit to do, it's just I don't fancy most of it. There are two beaches within a short taxi ride away, you can purchase a 'Hoi An attraction pass' and look around the temples and merchant houses. There's walking around the town itself, a day trip to 'My Son' temple and of course there's shopping that must be done. Hoi An's a big tourist attraction (the hotels are always full) however it doesn't feel like it. It's bizarre but, for such a small place with lots of people, it's very quite. If someone said to me that, for their annual weeks holidays, they were going to go to Hoi An I would tell them that they had made a great choice. It's not all 'cake and cream' though; I'm still getting bombarded by motorbike offers. The Vietnamese riders are canny; they trying to keep you talking buy, not only asking if you want a motorbike ride, but where you are from. I've said the UK so many times that I'm now telling them I'm from Uzbekistan … or Mars.

I would have walked around for longer however it was very hot and my feet started to hurt. I retired to my hostel to pick-up my laundry, upload my photos and read my book. I met Kim at 7:30pm; we booked ourselves onto a tour of 'My Son' for tomorrow and then went for something to eat. We had already decided that, tonight, we would dine along the riverfront. We walked through the usual narrow alleyways until we hit the water. A full moon was out and the area was stunningly beautiful. Red Chinese lanterns hug from many of the old French colonial buildings and different coloured lanterns were positioned across the main bridge. As I ate I made a decision that, tomorrow night, I'll be back to take some photos.

So today has been a lovely, relaxing, day. Tomorrow I'll get up early to visit the 'My Son' temple before booking my coach ticket, to Hue, for the following day. I also need to make sure that I book accommodation as Hue gets quite busy.

Toodle Pip!

I think I'm in China.

Sunday 20th March 2011

MP3 track of the day: Honeymoon - The young Victoria

Weather: Coldish in the morning but getting quite warm within the middle of the day. There's quite a strong breeze disguising the power of the sun; I think I've got a little sun burnt.





















GOOOOD MORNING VIETNAM!

I was awoken by interior coach lights being turn on; it was at this point that the coach attendant informed us that, within ten minutes, we would arrive within the center of Hoi An. I knew Hoi An wasn't a big place, however I was still surprised that we were so close. The time of arrival seemed correct, it was almost 6am, however the view made me question just how close we really were. Pulling back my curtain I could see lush, green, rice paddies backed by dense woodland. The sun was just coming into view and the morning mist was rising … perfection loomed outside my window.

I'd slept well last night, once I had found a comfortable position. The surprising thing, given my height, was that I could stretch out fully … however only just. We crossed a wooden bridge (that had seen better days) flanked by woodland and there, on the other side, was the beginning of Hoi An. We went through a number of streets before the coach pulled up outside it's offices. I inquired as to where our exact location was and, happily, I was informed that my hostel was only a five minute walk away. I pushed my way through the bombardment of taxi and motorbike offers and headed off on foot. Within five minutes I arrived at my hostel. For the first time since New Zealand I was staying at a 'YHA', and it was a rather pleasant one. I went inside and checked-in. Obviously, being 6:30am, I was told that I couldn't go into my dorm as people were still sleeping. The lady, who's bed I would be taking, wouldn't be checking out until 7am. After that bed sheets needed changing and so the up-shot was that I wouldn't be allowed in until 7:30am. To my right was a long wooden bench; I sat down and waited.

At 7:30am I crept into my dorm, trying not to disturb anyone from their slumber. As I had a good nights sleep on the coach I dumped my stuff within my dorm, picked up my camera, and headed out into town. Whilst walking towards the center I noticed that something was wrong; it took me a short while to realize that I was missing some item of clothing. My hat, which I had purchased in Malaka, Malaysia, in late November was either still in Na Trang, or on the sleeper coach … I couldn't remember exactly where. Either way it mattered not, I was without my hat. Call it an amazing coincidence but, just at that time of thought, I found myself walking past a hat shop. It sold a similar hat to the one I had left behind however, as I'm only within South East Asia for another two weeks, I decided not to purchase one … I had my 'Mclaren F1 baseball cap' that had been in the bottom of my bag since leaving Japan. At 8am I noticed that the weather was very pleasant, the temperature wasn't too hot or too cold; a gentle breeze blew through the streets and, all-in-all, I was looking forward to looking around Hoi An. The only problem was that the sky was full of clouds, making photographing the place a little difficult; I decided to photograph in a away that minimized the white skies as much as possible.

Hoi An is a UESCO site due to it's French colonial buildings. Only three small narrow streets are considered it's center. One street was facing the riverfront with the other two running parallel behind. The streets were littered with wooden French colonial buildings painted in a golden yellow colour; the wooden window shades were brown and there were trees and plants, in full bloom, all around. Being a UESCO site care had been given to the pavements and general layout of the area. With so much shade, due to the narrow streets lined with buildings, it was a joy to walk around the area so early in the morning. There were very few tourists around and so, first of all, I visited the 'Japanese Covered bridge' constructed within the mid sixteenth century (though many restoration projects have taken place after that date). Due to not owning a 'Hoi An's sightseeing ticket' I couldn't step onto the bridge (though I did for a cheeky photo) and so I headed down to the waterfront to cross over the stream on a more, conventional, wooden bridge.

Instead of purchasing a ticket, for each attraction, you have to purchase one of these inclusive tickets. The ticket costs 100,000 dong (around £3) and covers entry, over two days, for one museum, one old merchants house, one Chinese temple and the bridge. 100,000 dong is quite a lot and considering I can see the bridge, I will be going into China so Chinese temples won't be an issue and that I wasn't really bothered about the ceramic museums I started to question whether the ticket was really worth it. Going on my usual stance that I preferred the outside of buildings more than the interior I decided to walk towards 'Phung Hung House' (a merchants house) knowing full well that, without a ticket I wouldn't be able to get it. This didn't stop me trying, though with a frosty Vietnamese lady on reception, I didn't get anywhere. I came back out of reception, crossed the road, and took a photo. The building wasn't that spectacular, it looked the same as other buildings, within the town, only painted black.

Once done I came back across the stream and planned my walking route. As the town only had three small streets, to be considered it's 'center', I decided to form an 's' shaped walking path. I walked east along the riverside street; when at the end I went one block north and then headed west. Again, once at the end of this street I went one block north and headed east along the final center street. As these roads ran vertically there were many streets that ran horizontally and so, as I walked, I investigated them as well. It seemed that each building housed a retail outlet of some sort (or it was a museum, merchant house or temple). There were thousands of art galleries (which I found quite a few paintings I liked), souvenir stores, silk cloth shops, restaurants and suit tailoring services, which the town is famous for. It didn't take me long to fall in love with the hundreds of products on offer. Unlike other South East Asian countries the goods here didn't feel tacky, they felt well made. I loved the plates, bowls, chop stick boxes, paintings (I think I like Vietnamese art) and many, many other things. I think, once I own a property of some sort, I might fly out here to decorate, and equip, my home with all the paintings and utensils that I will need.

As I wondered further through the streets of Hoi An I started to ask myself why. Why was I enjoying Vietnam so much more than any other South East Asian country? Why did I like the products on offer? Personally I think it's because, unlike other South East Asian countries, Vietnam has a very Chinese feel to it. There are Chinese temples, lanterns and Chinese writing all over the country. I believe it's probably to do with the fact that, years ago, Chinese clans moved south, out of China, and settled within Vietnam. I think their expansion west into the rest of South East Asia was stopped due to the western mountains of Vietnam (plus possibly the Khmer empire); this is why Vietnam has this altogether different feel.

Having finished the city center, and with the time being 11:00am I headed out further a field until I had wondered around most of Hoi An. Out of the city center new developments could be seen with the typical shanty buildings ever present. I had photographed, and walked, until I seen the whole town, and it was only midday. I had booked three nights here and I wondered how I was going to fill my time. It was at this point that I herd a voice shouting my name. I looked to my right and saw this western looking lady, with a large Vietnamese cone hat on, walking towards me. It was Kim from the I-to-I teaching English project. Amazed I said hello and then we headed for a drink to quiz each other on where we had been. Having nothing else planned for the day we decided to walk around town 'window shopping'. It was nice chatting away and finding out further information about the places Kim had been to within Vietnam. She was planning on taking a day trip to 'My Son' and inquired if I fancied going. I accepted as that would take up a day.

We just walked and chatted; I saw a painting that I was tempted to purchase but I restrained. We had lunch around 2pm and then Kim had to go and change hotels. I had found some presents for my family, that I thought they would like, and so I purchased them and posted them home. I went back to my hostel to chill and await Kim as we were going to meet up at 7:30pm for something to eat. Kim arrived by bike and we found a restaurant close by. The waiter seemed to be in a little bit of a rush as all of his answers were short and to the point. We stayed there until 9pm; I had been up fifteen hours by then and was shattered. I returned to my hostel and went to sleep.

Tomorrow is going to be a lazy day, still not sure what I'm going to do yet.

Toodle Pip!