Weather:
I know that this might be getting a bit boring but … it was another
lovely sunny day.
MP3
track of the day: Clocks - Coldplay
Getting
up at 6:10am is not my most favourite thing to do whilst on holiday.
I had however, got up as late as I possibly could have done. As I'd
had a lovely long shower the night before, I skipped having one this
morning and, once dressed with my teeth cleaned, I left my hotel at
6:45am and walked towards the train station. Now, most of Japan's
rail network is run by 'Japan Rail'; therefore government owned.
There are however a few private lines and here I was, about to use
one which has stations in pretty much all of Kansai's major areas of
interest. The reason I opted for this private company was that,
though I had two changes to make to get to my destination, it was by
far the cheapest mode of transport. I therefore boarded my first
train within the centre of Nara and made my first 'change' five
minutes later. Twenty minutes after that and I had made my final
change. All that these changes had achieved, was to get me to the
southern edge of the city of Nara, (the first train took me east
before the second train took me south)
ready to head south-west towards my goal for today; Ise. My final
train, though cheap, would take a whopping ninety minutes to arrive
at Ise train station.
With
so much time I switched between looking outside and reading my
guidebook's entry about Ise. Though the Ise peninsular has been
dedicated as a national park, I am not that likely to find any peace.
The reason Ise is a national park is because it houses two shrine
sites – Ise-jingu (Gekpu) and Ise-jingu (Naikpu) – which are said
to be the home of the sun goddess Amaterasu, from whom it was once
believed that all Japanese Emperors are descended (even
today, the Emperor and his family make offerings at these shrines).
Therefore Ise is what Mecca is to the Muslims, a pilgrimage which all
Japanese people try to do once in their life time. An average 6.5
million Japanese visitors visit the shrines each year - which are
rebuilt every twenty or so years in order to 'purify' the ground –
and, luckily for me, the new year is the number one time to make that
pilgrimage. I closed my guidebook. Japan's population is falling
dramatically; lots of people are at work. How busy can a shrine site
actually get?
After
I'd finished reading my guidebook the obvious happened in regards to
public transport. Everyone within my carriage were minding their own
business when, through the door, came a chubby bloke with a read
face, ear muffs and two huge pieces of cotton wool stuck up his
nostrils so that his nose looked like a pigs. He was also trying to
mimic the sound of the train whilst talking to his imaginary friend.
Oh great; a nutter! Luckily he sat at the other end of the carriage
from me and would mind his own business … for the majority of the
time. On occasions, out of nowhere, he would get up and approach a
group of girls, trying to shake their hands whilst saying 'bye, bye'
as the train was moving. As neither him nor the group of girls had
any intention of leaving it was all rather bizarre. Once, he almost
got left behind at a station when he, for some unknown reason,
decided to get off the train for a walk. As you can tell, along with
my music player and the view, he did provide some entertainment.
I
knew that we were getting close to Ise as the nutter couldn't sit
still. He paced up and down the carriage, not once thinking about
venturing forth into any of the other carriages. Once we had finally
arrived, I allowed him to depart well before I did. Once at the
ticket gate I was a little surprised that my cheap ticket was
accepted and I was allowed to pass unhindered. My first stop was the
local information office where I met a frosty looking lady who could
speak English. I told her that I was thinking of visiting the two
famous shrines before taking the train all the way to Kashikojima –
the final stop located at the bottom of this national park. According
to my map, the train line ran through the heart of the park
therefore, I thought the views would be good. Afterwards I would head
off home.
She
first gave me the times for my train home before opening up a big map
of the city of Ise where she started to draw big circles – I've
noticed that tourist information people like to highlight and draw
circles – around the two famous shrines. She told me that the first
shrine was accessible by foot whereas, I'd better take a bus to the
second. She told me that there was a street near to the second shrine
– Okage-Yokocho – which, though very touristy, was lined with old
looking samurai buildings. Finally she gave me the train times to
Kashikojima however, she couldn't tell me when trains returned. I
thanked her before leaving the train station.
How
busy can this place be? It would appear that all of Japan was
visiting Ise on this day. As it turned out, I really didn't need to
have gone into the tourist information office for information about
the shrines; the sheer amount of people – all heading in the same
direction – was a give away. I followed the crowds dodging through
them in order to get to the shrine as quickly as possible. Another
way I managed to save time was whenever a Japanese 'gate' came into
view. It would appear that, on this holiest of days, the Japanese
people must walk through the gate, bow, and then proceed on their
journey. This left the spaces on either sides of the gates free for
me to speed through and make up some ground. I finally made it to the
first temple – Gekpu – and was a little disappointed. Due to the
fact that all of the temples have to be rebuilt every twenty years or
so, the whole place looked brand new. There appeared to be little
history behind anything standing though, watching the people flock to
pray at these shrines was interesting. I took a few photos before
departing.
Once
I'd finished at the first shrine, I then wanted to get to the second
– Nakipu. The queue for the bus to this shrine was incredible; it
snaked around and around, occupying all the available space within
the bus station. Not looking forward to joining a queue longer than
some countries, I opened up my guidebook to see if it was at all
possible to walk. My guidebook stated that the Nakipu shrine was six
kilometres from Ise therefore, that was a 'no'. I therefore purchased
an over priced bus ticket and joined the end of the only queue on
Earth which could be seen from space. Once again, Japanese efficiency
pulled through and, even though the queue was massive, it didn't
actually take that long until I boarded a bus. Sadly though, it would
appear that the town of Ise had appealed for every bus within thirty
miles and this meant that all sorts of bus and coaches were lined up
ready to take people to the temple. The one I'd boarded was designed
in an age where people didn't have legs. I therefore sat
uncomfortably for the entire journey.
Six
kilometres my elbow! Though it took twenty minutes or so to get to
the temple, this was due to the sheer volume of traffic. As I looked
into the distance, a bus lane had been created by the police however,
there were so many buses and coaches that they practically touched
bumper-to-bumper all the way to the temple. Our driver must be
someone who 'feels the cold' as the heaters were turned up to full.
All-in-all I was glad when we finally departed. I got off the bus and
saw this huge mob of people waiting to walk over a wooden bridge
which would take then to 'shrine number two' – Naikpu.
The
actual shrines within Naikpu were a lot like the shrines within Gepku
however, they were spread over a larger distance and were further
into the national park therefore, the surrounding vegetation was
extremely eye-catching. Some of the trees within this part of the
park were huge and went high into the sky. A river also ran through
the Naikpu site and this provided another opportunity for people to
throw away their money needlessly. Once I'd photographed the main
shrines I left the area however, I didn't return to the bus park.
Back over the bridge, and to my right, was the 'touristy' samurai
street which was lined with shops and filled with so many people that
most of them weren't actually moving. I decided to forgo this street
and opted to walk down one which, though running parallel, was
abandoned of all life. Once I'd proceeded halfway down this 'parallel
street', I went back onto the samurai street where I discovered that
the crowds had reduced because the there were no shops within this
part of the street. I decided to walk back to Ise, stopping at a
fast-food place for lunch – my first proper lunch of this trip!
Once
back in Ise the time was 1:30pm. Due to the numbers of people, it had
taken me four hours to see the two temple sites and now my trip to
Kashikojima was in jeopardy. I inquired into when the next train to
Kashikojima left and, a very helpful train attendant told me that it
was due to leave in ten minutes. He helped me buy a ticket and took
me to the platform in question where I just made it in time. Once sat
down, I did some maths. As the station attendant and I were running
to catch this train, he told me that it took an hour to get to
Kashikojima; that would get me there at 2:40pm. My train back home
left at 3:57pm meaning that, unless the train returned as soon as it
stopped, I was unlikely to catch my return train. I started to worry.
Though 4pm is still relatively early on any normal day, I currently
find myself within the middle of one of Japan's most important
holiday seasons therefore, things finish early. I wasn't worried
about getting back to Ise, I was worried about getting back to my
hotel in Nara. I was so worried that I thought about getting off the
train earlier and just abandoning the idea however, I did not. I
persevered with my plan though I found it hard to enjoy the journey
and concentrate on the activity I'd planned to do whilst on this
train … look out at the national park all around me. This actually
didn't matter. Though the train line ploughed through the centre of
this national park, it either did so through tunnels or with houses
very close to the lines. When I did get to see the land, it was
pretty barren and devoid of life due to the season. At some points I
did get to see the sea and that was very pretty indeed though, it
wasn't the prettiest coastline I've ever seen. The same too went for
the occasional mountain I could see. All-in-all the trip hadn't been
worth it and, to top it all, I was still worrying about getting my
train back to Nara.
I
never did step out of Kashikojima station. Once the train arrived, I
quickly ran through the ticket gate, bought a new ticket and
re-boarded. The train was scheduled to leave three minutes after it
had arrived and god knows when the next train was after that. Being
me I decided to play it safe. As the train pulled out at 2:43pm, I
could finally relax; I knew that it would take an hour to get back to
Ise and that left me a good fourteen minutes to catching my train
back to Nara. I was now beginning to relax however, that didn't help
the scenery become any more pleasing. Neither did the fact that
another nutter had now boarded and spent the whole journey swinging
left to right whilst looking out of the driver's window. Once again,
train noises seemed to be his thing.
We
arrived three minutes late. I dashed through the ticket gate,
purchased my ticket for Nara and went back through the ticket
barriers to arrive at my platform two minutes before my train left.
Once boarded I sat down relieved. I had planned on trying to take a
different train – therefore a different route – home however, I'd
decided not to push my luck and so I had boarded a train which
followed the same route as I'd taken to Ise. Sitting on the seats in
front of me was a very young couple who were either starting their
holiday or just finishing it. I tried not to stare however, the girl
had such a beautiful smile it was difficult not to. It was warm and
filled with sincerity. She had a box of cakes which she couldn't wait
to open. She halved one and shared it with her boyfriend. Though the
scene is quiet a mundane one, there was something in her smile and
the way she couldn't wait to share her cake – she couldn't wait to
hear what her boyfriend thought – that made it so heart warming.
Though I'd seen a lot of praying this was the most genuine, and
beautiful, act I've witnessed throughout my entire trip. What did
spoil it a little was that the third nutter of the day (are
they employed by the train company?) sat
down next to them shortly after they had finished their cake.
After
ninety minutes I alighted the train. I then had to repeat this
mornings two train changes – but in the opposite order – to get
me into the centre of Nara. Once in Nara, I had wanted to go to the
bakery 'Vieda France' for a pastry dinner however, the store was only
open for another hour therefore, their stock was probably past it's
best. I therefore retired back to the restaurant I'd been to every
night so far and ordered a spaghetti bolognese with salad, soup and a
lovely hot bread roll. Afterwards I had a chocolate cake for dessert.
With
dinner done I returned to my hotel where I told the owner all about
my day. I then planned how I was going to get to Osaka tomorrow
before I started to write this blog. So this ends my stay in Nara and
wow, hasn't it gone quickly. Tomorrow I shall be moving onto my final
stop of my 'Kansai tour' – Osaka – after which I will head home.
It's not fare … I save up for months on end to do these trips and
they go past in the blink of an eye. I can still remember my trip
around Himeji-jo as if it was yesterday. Someone, please stop the
clocks.
Toodle
Pip!
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