Date:
Saturday 17th August 2014
Weather:
Though I crossed half of Japan in one day, the weather remained
pretty much the same wherever I was. A roof of cloud covered the sky
for the entire day. The weird thing was; no matter how high, or low,
the road I was on climbed or descended, the clouds always seemed to
remain at the same height. There was, of course, long periods of
heavy rain, which means...
MP3
track of the day: Listen to the rhythm of the falling rain – Jason
Donovan
The
morning pretty much went how I'd planned it. My alarm went off at
4:30am and, due to having a long shower the night before, I had a
light shower, cleaned my teeth and got dressed. I found myself
sitting inside my car at around 5:00am. After double checking that I
had everything, I made sure that my music player, snacks and drinks
were all within easy reach; I then consulted my map.
My
route home would try to be as direct as it could be, missing large
urban areas and as many traffic lights as possible. Not only did I
think that this would make my trip quicker, I also believed that it
would save me money on petrol. To start, I would head north until I
joined the '458'; this would take me into the large city of Nagano
(where I stayed for my 30th birthday)
however, as I would be within
this city at around 6am on a Saturday, I was confident that traffic
would be light. After this I would join the '18' briefly before
switching onto the '172', which headed in a north-easterly direction
through fields and many small communities. Next I would switch onto
the '272' which would take me over the mountains and into the city of
Aizu-Wakamatsu. By the time I reached Aizu-Wakamatsu I felt that it
should be about midday; I would therefore stop for something to eat
(plus probably fuel) before
heading straight towards Japan's eastern coastline. From their I
would take the '7' through the big cities of Fukushima and Sendai.
This part of the trip I wasn't looking forward too however, once
through Sendai, it should be plain sailing along the '45' all the way
to Miyako. For those who have limited knowledge of Japanese
geography; I would start of by heading east, then I would head
north-east to Aizu-Wakamatsu before heading east to Japan's eastern
coastline. I would then head north, hugging the coastline all the way
back up to Miyako. I left that my 'estimated time of arrival in
Miyako' would be around 10pm. With my plan, my bags and my 'snack and
music placement' double checked, I turned the ignition key and
quietly left my hostel's car park (which is actually a
small area of grassland next to a stream).
The time: 5:15am.
The
first part of my trip occurred without incident. Always wary of road
closures, I found the mountain road to Nagano open and without
traffic. Japan really is beautiful in the morning; I loved climbing
into the clouds, only to fall back out of them and into another small
farming community with plenty of rice fields ready for harvesting.
A
part from reminiscing about my 30th
birthday holiday, Nagano proved to be no problem at all. I went
straight through this lovely city and out onto the '18'. Due to local
morning traffic, things did slow down a little around the suburbs of
Nagano however, once far enough away from the city, the cars
disappeared and I was once again left by my self. A sheet of grey
cloud hung above me as I drove north-east which, though no good for
photos, did make the day a lot cooler and meant that my
air-conditioning was not required.
I
found the '172' to be a joyous road of little traffic, plenty of
places to pass and – for once – a continual white hashed line
(which means that you can over-take).
The time was getting onto 9am and I had enjoyed this road so much
that I didn't want to leave it however, soon enough, the dreaded
'272' was shown on the road sign above me.
For
those of you unfamiliar with my '30th
Birthday blogs', it was this road - which was closed due to snow -
which forced a 4/5 hour diversion around the mountain range it
crossed. As I approached this road, it didn't look that inviting; the
clouds were dark grey in colour and seemed to be swirling around as a
warning. The cloud looked thick therefore, I wondered if the road
would have been closed due to sever fog however, as I searched
everywhere for a sign none appeared. I pressed on; sure I could have
abandoned my route and used a different road however, I had an old
score to settle and I wanted to know if the '272' 'winter closure'
was justified.
The
winter snow closure was certainly justified though, for this summer
trip, the dark clouds weren't an issue (the cloud never
reduced visibility because, when I climbed, so too did the cloud …
weird). I could see how
dangerous this road could be if there was ice and snow on it; at
first the '272' meandered it's way in between soaring mountains on
either side of it, closely following the path of a river. Once it
could meander no more, the road started to climb extremely quickly
through a series of 's' bends, some of which had a little less
'stopping you from driving over the edge' equipment than I would have
liked.
Once
at the top, the mountain seemed to have given up trying to dissuade
me and it opened up a view so stunning that I can't remember seeing
anything quite this good anywhere else in Japan. I parked up –
along with two other Japanese cars – and stared down into the
valley way, way, way below me. Sharp edged mountains crashed
downwards hitting lake after lake in the valley below; this sight
went on and on and on, right into the distance. I took photograph
after photograph trying to do this area justice though alas, I
couldn't quite get it right. A Japanese guy – who I had driven up
the mountain with – also stopped his car and, as we took
photographs, we chatted a little; he also asked if he could take my
photo. After my 'photo shoot' he wished me well and continued on his
way; I wanted to take a few more photos however, the mountain had
other ideas.
I
had thought that the mountain had given up trying to make me leave
however, it had just been storing up power for one gigantic hit. As I
was taking my last shots, a torrent of rain came from nowhere. I
rushed to my car, got in and drove off with my wipers on full power.
This continued all the way down the mountain preventing me from
seeing the terrain around me. Once I had stopped descending I
instantly recognised the place I had stopped at last April. I then
drove through terrain and villages which, though not completely new
to me, felt alien because of the dynamic seasonal changes within this
area.
Once
I was clear of the mountains and back in the valley below, I had a
huge smile on my face even though the rain was still bucketing it
down. I had beaten the road which had caused me so many problems and,
as the time was 11am, it would appear that this road is indeed a very
quick way to move from Japan's central prefectures, to it's northern
ones. I continued to drive, enjoying what view I could see and
noticing that, for every ten kilometres I got closer to
Aizu-Wakamatsu, another car could be seen heading in the same
direction as I.
Due
to traffic, I crawled into the outskirts of Aizu-Wakamatsu at around
midday. Having missed breakfast (I was hoping to find
somewhere open along the way but alas, there wasn't anything) I
was starving. Unsure what I fancied, I scoured the huge signs erected
along the road. Soon enough I found a sign for a ramen 'chain
restaurant' which I had visited before. My stomach gave a stir of
approval and so I left the main road and parked my car within the
restaurant's car park.
As
I was munching my way through a semi-spicy bowl of ramen (with
six gyoza's as a side) I looked
at my road map wondering if the route I had planned was still viable.
My current route meant that I had to travel through three big cities
(Aizu-Wakamatsu – I was still on the outskirts -,
Fukushima and Sendai). It was
becoming obvious that hitting these cities out of the 'rush hour
period' was irrelevant, due to it being a Saturday and still within
'Obon'. As I looked at my map I saw a possible route north, which
would mean that I missed all three of these cities however, I would
have to travel through Yamagata city instead. As I kept gazing at my
map I realised that, if I did indeed head north, Yamagata was the
only big city between me and home. I could head north through
Yamagata and then, head directly east joining the Japanese coastline
at Ishinomaki before continuing north along Japan's eastern coast all
the way to Miyako. With that settled I finished my meal, closed my
map, paid and got back in my car.
A
part from one minor accident, the drive up to, and through, Yamagata
city proved to be effortless. Now I joined the '347' east-bound;
which is the same '347' I used on the first day of my holiday. Though
it was still raining, the views were still good and I enjoyed weaving
my way along this mountain road. All too soon, I found myself level
once again and driving through small towns and villages.
Once
I had stopped for a quick bite (It was now 6pm), I
found myself within the city of Ishinomaki. It was here that I would
stop travelling east (due to the sea) and
instead I would head north along a very familiar road; so familiar in
fact that, due to the time, I didn't mind that it was now dark and
therefore I couldn't see anything. With the feeling of home sight I
pressed on, possibly going a little quicker than I should have.
At
8pm I crossed into Iwate; my home prefecture.
I
was only forty-five minutes away from home when I saw a police car –
which had been travelling in the opposite direction – do a U-turn
and switch on it's red flashing lights. At this time, I knew that my
speed was okay therefore, I was unaware of any traffic law I had
violated. Being a good citizen I pulled off the main road and into a
bus bay; I then put my hazards lights on and stared at my rear-view
mirror hoping that this specific policeman had been given a radio
message and it wasn't actually me he was after. That dream faded as
soon as he pulled into the bus bay behind me.
At
the same time as the policeman got out of his car, I forgot every
single word of Japanese I had learnt over the last two years (though
I put a funny spin on this, it is probably for the best that I look
as though I can't speak Japanese. I could have said that I knew a
little but then, he might have said something which I may have
misunderstood to mean something completely different. My studies have
prepared me for light conversation, asking directions, shopping and
chatting up pretty Japanese ladies however, as of yet, I have not
read 'chapter 237: how to get yourself out of trouble with the police
when they pull you over for a traffic offence').
I
opened my window to be greeted by an elderly gentleman who appeared
to have lost his eyes. He seemed to be one of those people who closes
their eyes whilst speaking, only to open them when he had finished.
When he did open them he got quite a shock and realised that, the
first two minutes of our meeting had been fruitless. “... good
evening officer, can I help you...” was the facial image I
portrayed and, as they explained what I had done wrong with a mix of
Japanese, English and gestures, my face changed from 'butter wouldn't
melt' to a honest look of 'I had no idea that was against the law'.
At
night in Japan, a lot of traffic lights change the way they work (I
now hate traffic lights even more).
During the day traffic lights in Japan are the same as back at home
however, at night, they continually flash either amber of red. I
interpreted this to mean that, whichever road at the junction had the
amber flashing light, then they had priority over the red however, it
actually means something a little different. Yes the amber flashing
light has priority over the red however, you still have to reduce
your speed considerably with an amber flashing light and, with a red
flashing light, you actually have to stop, look both ways, and then
continue on your way. I, of course, sailed through a red flashing
light – after checking that there was no traffic of course – and
didn't actually stop. I gave the policeman my Japanese drivers
licence and my 'foreigner card'. He went back to his car and spoke
with his colleague; they then both came back to me and gave me back
my cards. I then had to write my name – in block capitals - on a
green slip, and place my fingerprint next to my name. Once completed,
they wished me safe travels and off I went (though, I was
still a little shocked therefore, I actually drove off forgetting to
turn off my hazards and also forgetting to put back on my
headlights).
Once
back at home I put all of my stuff away before turning on my computer
to see what kind of penalty I could face. The bad news was that I
couldn't find any information on the penalty however, the good news
is that tickets are usually issued at the time and that, having your
fingerprint taken is a standard procedure when you have been stopped
by the police (it's a bit like writing your signature).
Strangely I didn't feel angry with the police, or annoyed with
myself; I honestly didn't know about this rule therefore, I knew that
I would probably get stopped now or later (the day after I
chatted to a couple of Japanese friends. I found out that the fine
could be about £60 and that, I might get a few points however, given
that I didn't get a ticket there and then – and that the police had
told me the rules of the road, been quite charming and wished me a
save trip – they felt as though I probably got away with a caution
… but I will just have to wait and see).
Once I had finished
researching my possible punishment, I put all of my belongings away,
filled up the washing machine for tomorrow, had a little bite to eat
and fell soundly to sleep dreaming of all of the things I had
achieved within such a short period of time ... and almost forgetting
about the police.
Toodle Pip!
P.S. So blog fans! I am
afraid to report that, it maybe a year until my next post. The reason
for this is because, this winter, I might be heading home for
Christmas (if not I shall probably stay home trying to save
money). Next Spring I want to move to a new part of Japan
therefore, summer 2015 seems like the next time I'll be travelling.
Where; I have no idea … that's half the fun isn't it?
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